Redoctane AfterBurner Control Box?

Okay so my box is officially pooped out and I need a replacement. I was thinking about buying a DDRGame Box but was told that the pinouts might not be the same

But i found another thread that said the after burners pinouts match a good chunk of 9-pin pads and was told it lines up with the blueshark's pins as well?

So what do??

Are you the guy that e-mailed me about getting a CF box 9-pin for the afterburner?

I meant to tell you that I believe most of the metal pads all came from the same factory in China and should match up just right. You may want to e-mail them and ask, or try and find the exact pinout of both pads to see if they match, or just buy it anyways because it will probably work. I was afraid though that I may be wrong. You can also try to build your own control box.

yeah that was me ahaha

I would contact them but activision bought them out in like 2009 and shut them down in like 2010 and then activision shut down their whole peripherals division so thats kind of gone aha

But if thats true, I guess Ill buy the generic 9-pin from DDRGame and see if that will work 8I

I did a quick search on Google, found this:
Hello all

I've recently had my control box die out on this (I believe to be) first run of the redoctane metal pads. I'm not even sure if they were called afterburners at the time (according to their site the current control boxes won't work with them either.) Anyhow I was just going to solder it into a preexisting controller ghetto style but had a question.

It used the 15pin dsub and I'm sure I've found the basics.

Arrows are pin 11-14, ground is 15.

The question however is if anyone knows how the LED and x/o pinouts are arranged?

I know they have a separate IC in the control box for the leds but I don't see any reason they couldn't handle the normal voltage (if they can't, I'll just end up replacing them but whatever.)

I'm far from an electrical engineer and random probing hasn't gotten me anywhere past being able to just use the arrows.

Oh how nice of redoctane to just drop older product support entirely lol.

Thanks everyone.

It shows that the ROAfterburner used the bottom five pins for the four arrows and a common ground. If your pad has a 9-pin I've not found anything about that. The CF pads use pins 1-10 so it's not at all compatible. DDRGame I understand also use pins 1-10 (actually I think pins 1-7) but in a different configuration.

If you have the control box right now and sent it to me I could likely repair it.

Very few people even have working afterburners still.

ugh oh man i wish I still had the control box but my mom threw it out

but yeah, my pad is a 9 pin :c But there was also 2 different control box designs, a solid black one and the translucent red one :c

If you have a multi-meter you can figure out the pinout.



Set the meter to check resistance at the lowest setting, Pin 1 or 9 are the likely ground pins although it could be anything. Put the two leads into two pins, one must be ground and the other can be anything, grab a paper and write out everything you determine.

So put one lead in Pin 1 and another in Pin 2 and have someone step on every input on the pad, if the meter changes from INFINITY (1) to Zero (as low as the meter can read) then you found one of the arrows and the ground. If nothing happens on any arrow then you may have found a pin that isn't mapped to anything in the pad or you did not find the ground yet or the leads are not able to contact the inputs in the d-sub you may need to get a 9-pin male d-sub to attach on the other end simply to have physical pins that you can more easily touch with the meter. Keep trying different sets of pins once you find the ground then 90% of the work is over, you can leave one lead in the ground and only move the other lead. Make sure you use those numbers above for the pin #'s.

If you manage to figure it all out I can make you a control box, or if you solder you can easily make your own.

Is it easier to make your own or purchase one from DDRgame and modify it?

Well if you get one from DDRGame it may blow out unless you add in-line capacitors, if you can get a stout soft pad well soldering up a d-sub kinda sucks but that's the hardest part, it would be easier to modify one from DDRGame honestly especially if you are connecting to StepMania and you only need to switch two wires to get ground connected properly.